Royal Chitwan National Park in the Terai of Nepal is a fine example of a nature preserve. The Terai where it is located, has much swampland and is a haven for migrating birds. Tigers, leopards, and other predatory animals roam through its jungles. Elephants can bred safely and crocodiles live in its rivers. A hundred years ago this region was a hunting preserve for the royal family of Nepal and for its guests who slaughtered beautiful creatures and brought home their skins as trophies to be made into rugs or hung on walls. For example, King George V of England, on hunting trips along the Rapti river, disposed of thirty nine tigers, some rhinos, and a bear. It wasn't until the middle of the twentieth century that light dawned on the Nepalese government and the then king. The Royal Chitwan National Park was created as a place where wildlife can live at its own pace, undisturbed by humans with an urge to kill.
At five o'clock all of the guests at Tiger Tops boarded elephants and went in search of wild life, hoping especially to catch sight of a tiger.
Small, hyper-active monkeys were already chattering in the trees and leaping from branches. After a bit, the mahout of the elephant on which I was enthroned with three other people, spotted tiger spoor and urged our mount to speed up. The trail we were on was hilly and I learned that when an elephant is a hurry, going uphill is more comfortable than going down. We never did see a tiger but in clearings in the thick jungle growth there were three rhinos and what looked like an antelope. The expedition was fun anyway. We crossed the river on the way back to the lodge, arriving for breakfast with ravenous appetites. People keep on the move at this resort and the next adventure was a trip down the river to a Tharu village. When we reached a landing place, we found carts drawn by bullocks waiting for us.
We were hauled to the village but saw few of its inhabitants. The Tharus, a farming people, apparently keep much to themselves, preserving their unique culture and worshiping their own gods. In the sixteenth century some of them had migrated from northern India. They came to escape the Mughal rulers who had brought the religion of Islam from Persian. The immigrants settled in this region. They are self-sufficient, raising their own food, building their simple houses, weaving colorful fabrics for their clothes, and making pottery.
The following day, the Tiger Tops party was over. Instead of riding elephants to the airport, we traveled prosaically by jeep. The odd looking plane awaited us. I sat in the back beside the flight attendant, a pretty, sari-clad Indian woman. She seemed so undisturbed by the fact that the seat belts there were broken that I relaxed and didn't worry. It was early afternoon when we arrived in Kathmandu. As we walked to the bus, a large cow crossing the street looked at us inquisitively but let us pass.
It was no surprise--we had noticed other livestock roaming freely. Now we went directly to Pashupatinath, a city on the bank of the holy Bsgmsti river.
A funeral was taking place. The pyre had been lighted and a body was being burned. We went past hastily so as not to be voyeurs at such a private ceremony. This river is to the the devout, mostly Hindu population of Nepal, as sacred as the Ganges is to the Hindus of India. When the late king and his family were tragically murdered several years ago, here on the Bagmati in Pashupatinath the state funerals were held. At a temple on the other side a small sign read "Hindus Only". From this city we went to the Tibetan area of Kathmandu and I thought it was like being in Lhasa. On top of an immense circular stupa a Buddha's eyes survey the region. There were huge prayer wheels around the stupa and in nearby shops Tibetan ornaments, prayer flags, and jewelry were for sale.
That night out group of twelve with Anna, the tour director as number thirteen, ate a Hindu dinner and a very good dinner it was, with much rice and exotic curried vegetables. Afterward, Anna regaled us with an account of her last trip to Nepal. On that tour were a middle-aged couple traveling together but not married. Suddenly they decided to tie the knot and wanted a Hindu wedding. Anna's eyes sparkled as she told us how she had borrowed a sari from an Indian travel agent for the bride and the bridegroom had bought himself a traditional Hindu cap. A Hindu priest officiated at the wedding. On this happy note, we parted for the night. We had three days left and we had yet to view part of the top of the world, the grand Himalayan range.